Understanding The Care Of Dwarf Hamsters
Understanding The Care Of Dwarf Hamsters
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Home Page > Home and Family > Pets > Understanding The Care Of Dwarf Hamsters
Understanding The Care Of Dwarf Hamsters
Posted: Mar 17, 2010 |Comments: 0
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Understanding The Care Of Dwarf Hamsters
By: Walter Tekman
About the Author
Walter Tekman is a pet hamster enthusiast and author of The Best Ever Guide To Dwarf Hamsters available at Dwarf Hamster Guide. He spends much of his time advising others on how to setup and maintain the perfect hamster habitat, while selecting the best possible hamster as a pet. Go to Dwarf Hamster Care for his complimentary 10-day free email mini-course, which reveals lots of tips, techniques and secrets for creating the greatest possible experience with your pet hamster.
(ArticlesBase SC #2003989)
Article Source: http://www.articlesbase.com/ – Understanding The Care Of Dwarf Hamsters
There happens to be a large number of dwarf hamster types existing throughout parts of Russia and China, but only four of the species are bred in captivity and each one of those can make a terrific pet. And, although the standard size Golden hamster is much larger, the mini dwarf hamster most surely will require a similar level of responsible care. Not surprisingly, the tiny dwarf hamster is more fragile, a bit more anxious and extremely quick to get a way. The best policy with these tiny critters is to provide the most secure enclosure possible, as it doesn’t take much of an opening for them to disappear through.
Gratefully, the habitats and various cages that are easily obtained will serve any type of hamster quite well, providing the area and dimensions of the equipment matches the physical size and level of activity of the animal to be contained. A common mistake is to think that the typical cage, which is designed for the full size hamster is a suitable habitat, but that’s about as secure as a screen door in a submarine. Fortunately, the tubular style habitats and closely spaced barred cages are now readily available. And, don’t overlook the tried and true aquarium tank for maximum escape proof protection and easy cleaning.
Because of their highly active metabolism, these little dynamos need lots of exercise, and as a consequence, it’s important to accessorize the cage with a top rated hamster wheel. Actually, a more secure activity gadget is known as the hamster ball, which is a type of 360 degree enclosed device that provides the same opportunity for exercise, without the risk of injury or escape, when utilized out of security of the cage. In the native surroundings of their homeland, some hamster types have been observed traveling up to 8 miles during an overnight search for food. So, there’s an obvious health and fitness need to their relentless quest for physical activity. On a cautionary note, the potential risk of foot and leg injury employing the standard size wheel, it’s a good idea to acquire one designed specifically for the dwarf species of hamsters.
The hamster’s instinctive need for building burrows and tunnels will easily be satisfied with the addition of about 3 inches of substrate covering the habitat floor. Materials can include dust-free paper or cellulose fibers that are free of inks and dyes, as well as, wood shavings or fibers, and most importantly, excluding the health threatening varieties of cedar and pine. Bedding material should be totally changed out each week. The bedding substrate will also provide a popular and easy means for nest building. Fortunately, a cheaper option is to utilize materials commonly found around any household, such as cotton balls, paper towels and cardboard products. Resultant of their natural tendency toward shyness, they will typically build their nest inside the area of a nesting box or other covered container and subsequently enjoy significant amounts of their days hiding and relaxing in their secluded quarters.
Surprisingly to many owners, the high metabolism of these little critters will require them to consume just as much food as their much bigger cousins from Syria. But, don’t let the site of an empty food dish be any indication of exactly how much they’re consuming, as these guys instinctively hide food in the nest and other places, just like a dog burying a bone. So, to be sure they’re getting all the nutrition they’ll need, always ensure a fresh supply of nutrients and treats in their food bowls. The best approach to ensuring the optimal intake of health sustaining nutrition is to provide a variety of foods, which include the staple hamster pellets, various mixtures of seeds and moderate amounts of nutritious veggies and fruit. Also critical to proper health is the opportunity to gnaw on a variety of safe materials. Otherwise, they’ll chew on everything in sight, as a means to control the constant growth of their front teeth. Materials such as plastics and metals may develop rough jagged edges that can cause injuries that result in wound infections.
Weekly habitat upkeep should include a comprehensive program for cage, toys and accessories sanitation. Cleaning should include washing all of the items in a warm mixture of water and gentle soap, after which everything needs to be rinsed thoroughly. Clean dry base material can be introduced when the habitat has completely dried, thereby avoiding the growth potential of bacteria and harmful mold. Be certain to avoid any strong chemical cleaners, as any remaining residue may cause irritation to hamsters, and in extreme cases may contribute to illness or worse.
Finally, these little guys will require some measure of responsible care, but none of that will ever match the hours of entertainment and loving affection provided by this wonderful little creature in return.
For additional information and resources, please visit Care Of Hamsters
Copyright 2010 Walter Tekman. All rights reserved. Please feel free to share the entire contents of this article with your friends or post it on your site as long as it is left intact with all links unchanged, including this notice.
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Walter Tekman -
About the Author:
Walter Tekman is a pet hamster enthusiast and author of The Best Ever Guide To Dwarf Hamsters available at Dwarf Hamster Guide. He spends much of his time advising others on how to setup and maintain the perfect hamster habitat, while selecting the best possible hamster as a pet. Go to Dwarf Hamster Care for his complimentary 10-day free email mini-course, which reveals lots of tips, techniques and secrets for creating the greatest possible experience with your pet hamster.
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care of hamsters, dwarf hamsters, hamsters cages, hamster, hamster types, hamster wheel, syrian hamster, golden hamster
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Walter Tekman is a pet hamster enthusiast and author of The Best Ever Guide To Dwarf Hamsters available at Dwarf Hamster Guide. He spends much of his time advising others on how to setup and maintain the perfect hamster habitat, while selecting the best possible hamster as a pet. Go to Dwarf Hamster Care for his complimentary 10-day free email mini-course, which reveals lots of tips, techniques and secrets for creating the greatest possible experience with your pet hamster.
Understanding Hamster Behavior
Watching your hamster frolic around his cage can provide you with hours of enjoyment, but what exactly is he up to? Is he just playing, or do his actions have some other meaning associated with them. Hamsters are complicated little creatures and understanding a little more about why they do the things they do can help you keep your hamster healthy and stress-free. It’s a well-known fact that reducing stress for a hamster is the best thing you can do to help your hamster live a long and healthy life.
If you see your hamster creeping along the floor of his cage, your hamster is nervous about something, usually something outside of his cage. Do you have a cat nearby, or is there a lot of commotion that could be startling your hamster? Keep an eye out for things that could be causing your hamster stress. If things get worse and your hamster gets frightened he may put his ears forward and puff his cheeks up. This is a classic sign of fright, and may be quickly followed by an emptying of his cheek pouches if he was carrying any food in them. At this point he’s not happy about the situation at all and is getting ready to run.
If you ever attempt to handle your hamster and you notice that his ears are back then you’d better remove your hand quickly as he’s feeling very aggressive and is likely to bite. Another warning sign if you ever go to handle your hamster is if you see him lying on his back with his teeth bare – you may think this a sign of submission but it’s actually another sign that your hamster is frightened and he will bite you in this state if you attempt to pick him up.
Some of the more pleasant signs to look for in your hamster are burrowing and grooming. If you spot your hamster burrowing (which is very likely) it just means that he’s looking for stray bits of food lying amongst his bedding material that he may have missed before. They’ll spend a great deal of time doing this so it’s an easy one to spot. If you catch your hamster grooming or stretching then you are looking at a particularly content and happy hamster!
If you have particularly good hearing you may occasionally catch your hamster making squeaking noises. Consider yourself lucky, as the average hamster squeak lasts only a fraction of a second, and the vast majority of hamster vocalization takes place in a frequency range that is completely undetectable by humans.
A more noticeable noise is teeth chattering – this is a sign that your hamster is unsettled, and is seen most often when a hamster is introduced to a cage that already has a hamster in it. Watch for the warning signs of potential combat between the two hamsters.
Hamsters use various scent glands on their bodies to mark their territory by rubbing the glands up against the sides of the cage. If there’s a spot in the cage they wish to mark but can’t get to with their glands they’ll scratch their scent glands with their rear feet and then walk around the area they wish to claim as theirs. When males and females in the same cage are ready to mate they’ll both reduce their markings, giving each other the signal that it’s okay for the other to approach.
You may occasionally catch your hamster chewing at the bars of his cage. Although he may look like he’s trying to chew his way to freedom he’s actually keeping his every-growing teeth at a reasonable length. If he didn’t continue to keep his teeth ground down they’d cause serious dental problems and illness. Just make sure the bars on the cage aren’t rusty!
Visit the Hamster-Zone website for even more detailed information on hamster care, hamster diet, hamster cages, and much, much more. Learn important tips on how to keep your hamster healthy and happy, including proper diet, care, and cage enrichment.
When Hamsters Attack – Understanding Hamster Interaction
Hamsters, as a rule, are very territorial creatures, with some being far more aggressive to other hamsters than others. Syrian hamsters are a good example – never ever put two Syrian hamsters in a cage together unless you want to scoop out a dead hamster the next morning. Dwarf hamsters can be housed together, but it’s a good idea to know how hamsters behave when interacting with each other so you can identify the warning signs of things possibly taking a turn for the worse.
Hamsters rely a great deal on body language to convey information or messages to other hamsters. Just as you or I would read hand wringing as a sign of nervousness or foot tapping as a sign of restlessness, hamsters read subtle body messages as signs of anger, anxiety, or pleasure from the actions of other hamsters.
Hamsters that have never met before can identify each other and their sex by sniffing a scent gland located just behind the ear. Hamsters that are related to each other take far less time to identify each other than they do strange hamsters, thus lending evidence to the theory that each hamster has a unique identifying scent. When two male hamsters meet and sniff, the subordinate hamster will turn and leave, while a female hamster in heat will, upon meeting and sniffing a male, turn and present her rear to the lucky male.
Being fiercely territorial creatures, hamsters spend a lot of time measuring each other up to see which is the dominant animal. They do so by sniffing another scent gland located at their midsection, forming a ‘T’, with each hamster taking turns sniffing. The subordinate hamster sometimes ends up on his rear legs due to aggressive sniffing on the part of the dominant hamster. If this occurs then the dominant hamster may seize the opportunity to do some damage by biting at the exposed stomach of the subordinate hamster. The attacked hamster at this point has two choices – surrender or fight.
If the subordinate hamster doesn’t feel like testing his luck he can indicate his surrender by holding out one of his paws in front of him and avoiding eye contact. If this doesn’t work then the two hamsters will enter the first phase of combat, called rolling fighting. This is basically some intense wrestling with a few bites at the midsection for good measure. A hamster can admit defeat at this point by rolling over on his back. However any fighting that continues past this point becomes very serious.
Any hamsters still fighting at this point are in it to do some serious damage to each other. In the wild a beaten hamster can attempt to flee, but in a confined space such as a cage the hamsters will fight until one has torn the other to shreds. Attempting to pull them apart with your bare hands will get you nothing other than badly bitten fingers – your best bet at this point would be to spray the hamsters with a water bottle and separate them while they’re recovering from the soaking. Wear gloves or else you could still receive a nasty bite.

